Seeking Danish Delicacies in the Hinterland and Taste Sensations everywhere else

Kro Platter, Bakken, Copenhagen
Kro Platter, Bakken, Copenhagen

Quest for Smørrebrød

My quest for Smørrebrød

Smørrebrød is a particularly Danish invention.  They’ve taken the lowly sandwiched and have created culinary art with it.

Ida Davidsen’s family has been making open faced sandwiches in Copenhagen for several generations and is considered to be the premier place.  Unfortunately, when I was in Copenhagen, there were no tables available.  (sad face).

Of course there are hipsters that have tried to update the smørrebrød, like Aaman’s  in Copenhagen and Onkel A in Vejle.

A Culinary Pleasure

Everytime I come back to DK, I look forward to sampling many varieties.

This time, however, it appears that the Danish food landscape has moved towards American fast food and away from food as art.

In the 2.5 weeks I’ve been in DK, I’ve had minor success in eating smørrebrød.

My family has set up several cold tables with all the Danish delicacies where you build your own sandwiches but I longed for the real thing.  The sit down, knife and fork, beer and snaps type of experience. The experience where time is required and you enjoy every mouthful.

Close but not quite

Vejle Smørrebrød

Vejle Smørrebrød

I found one place in Vejle called, appropriately enough, Vejle Smørrebrød.  Not only wasn’t there anyone at the counter, but the

sandwiches looked like the Norwegians and the Scandinavian centre made them:  bare bones, flat and little decoration.  Not the high art I was looking for.

Today I left Vejle and headed south to Fredericia, to see the 1845 ramparts.  After that I wandered the streets, looking for either smørrebrød or a pølsevogn.  Neither were to be found.  Sigh.

Finally – Smørrebrød

In a last ditch effort to find something, anything to eat, I came upon a café with a very lengthy menu:  burgers, nachos, salads, kebabs, steak, pasta ……wait……do my eyes deceive me???  There, in the middle of all the foreign debris, was, in small print, 3 pieces smørrebrød.

Once the shock had passed, I immediately went in and ordered.  I guess it’s so rarely ordered that the cook came out to deliver it.  I guess he wanted to see who the hell ordered that old time stuff.

What the ???

Fredericia Smørrebrød

Fredericia Smørrebrød

Making my way back to my car I came across Fredericia Smørrebrød.  I went in and it was the same situation as in Vejle.  No one at the counter, Norwegian style smørrebrød.

No school like the old school

Then I popped into Føtex.  It’s the Danish version of Woodwards.  It sells everything and has a lovely food floor with a cafeteria.  Well, guess what?  There, on the counter was some very lovely looking pieces of smørrebrød.  Should have known that an old school store would be the place.

But my quest for Smorrebrod continues.  Hopefully Aalborg will be THE place.





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